Parrot and Bird Training

Parrot Training Tips

The Parrot Training Expert — Fri, 11 Sep 2009 03:09:48 +0000

I just wanted to take the time and write you a quick note letting you know that I found a website where you can get a free parrot training 3 Day E-course and training video, just by visiting this website

When you get there just sign up on one of the signup forms on their site, and they will send you their parrot training course immediately.

The course will teach your parrot to:

-Stop Biting

-Perform Tricks &

-Tame ANY SIZE bird you could possibly own

Check out the parrot training course here.

How Long Does It Take To Teach A Parrot To Talk?

The Parrot Training Expert — Fri, 04 Sep 2009 02:30:39 +0000

You can train your parrot to talk in as little as 15 minutes a day using the “Real Speech” system. Under this system your parrot will speak more words than you every could imagine And for species that cannot talk, you’ll have them whistling your favorite tunes.

It all boils down to teaching your parrot during the right times of the day. You can also use tapes and audio CDs to your advantage, but you’ll have to make sure they listen to the CD for the right amount time, as doing it too much is counterproductive.

Teaching your parrot is not a difficult task, especially under this system. To get the step-by-step instructions for the ‘Real Speech” system check out this link.

What’s Wrong With My Parakeet?

The Parrot Training Expert — Thu, 03 Sep 2009 03:09:04 +0000

Do you think your parakeet is sick or behaving strangely? Here are some things you can do in order to save your bird.

Panting or Trouble Breathing

First, call and make an appointment with an avian vet. Parakeets are prone to respiratory infections and your pet will need the medical attention of a certified veterinarian. Next, cover two or three sides of the bird cage and place a heat lamp over your bird. Keep the temperature between 80F and 86F (27C – 30C). If you only have a lamp be sure the bulb is no greater than 25 watts.

Droppings

If you notice a drastic change in your bird’s droppings such as a change in color, it becomes watery, or appears looser than usual. Also make note of any seeds in the droppings. Sometimes a change in droppings may be caused by a change in diet or brand of food.

Appetite

Another common sign of a sick parakeet is a change in appetite. If you bird stops eating or you ntice a change in his eating habits, then you be on the lookout to see if your bird begins to suddenly lose weight. This is often a telltale sign that your bird is sick, and you should contact a vet immediately.

Feathers

If your parakeet’s feathers are ruffled or puffed up for long periods of time, then something is wrong. If you find your bird’s feathers are discolored, you should also be aware of danger.

Discharge

A very serious symptom that you must look out for is discharge from your parakeet’s eyes and nostrils. This is often accompanied by sneezing or swelling around the eyes. These are very serious conditions that should be attended to by a vet.

Biting

Your parakeet didn’t learn biting in one day, and you’ll have to use positive reinforcement in order to stop it from biting over the course of several days. In order to successfully do this, I suggest you watch the videos available here.

If you need advice on parrot training check out this site.

How To Stop A Quaker Parrot From Biting You

The Parrot Training Expert — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 18:52:02 +0000

Most of the aggressive and destructive behavior that your Quaker make exhibit is caused by boredom. Quakers are very social animals, like most birds, and they like to be interacted with on a regular basis. These wonderful creatures are also very smart, and they know what is going on around them. My Quaker only gets upset if she feels threatened or ignored. Otherwise, he is a very loving and calm bird. Sometimes he will get nervous around strangers and can be very erratic and even a tad mean if someone he doesn’t know gets close to me.

If you want to stop your parrot from being aggressive and biting here are some helpful parrot training tips. I would encourage you to check out these videos if you want a more comprehensive review of the process.

The basic strategy of what you will use is called “Target Training”. When you buy your new baby Quaker, its from a hand-feeding breeder. And the little guy stays cute and cuddly for months before he is strong enough to bite you hard. Then the teenage years come. Your Quaker’s hormones are in full effect, and he or she wants a mate. During this time your Quaker will become increasingly territorial and aggressive, unless you do the right things to discourage this behavior. In order to this you’ll need to strengthen the communication you have between you and your bird.

And that’s exactly what “Target Training” does. It develops a level of communication with your bird that both of you can understand.

It works like this: you train your Quaker to understand simple commands from you, or cues. Then you teach your parrot that whenever he or she obeys these cues, he or she gets a really yummy treat! The more commands you teach your Quaker, the better the level of communication and the more your parrot will trust you, and stop biting you.

The first step of parrot training is to teach your Quaker to touch the end of a wooden dowel, or small wooden stick. Every time your Quaker touches the end of this wooden stick, you can reward him with a treat. Even if your Quaker lashes out, its doing so to the dowel.

Over time, your Quaker Parrot will quickly realize that you’re in charge and the boss. That realization will open up a whole new level of communication to him that he never knew was there. Soon he’ll realize that if he follows your cues, and touches the end of the stick like you’ve asked him to you’ll reward him, and reward him well.

A well target trained Quaker can be taught to do whatever it takes to touch the end of that stick, even if it means flying or walking over your entire house, just to follow your cues.

By concentrating on training your Quaker to “Target” or touch the end of a dowel, you’ll open up the stage of communication it takes to get your parrot to realize you really are a good person and that he doesn’t need to bite you to get what he wants after all.

For more information on target training, or other parrot training tips and tricks for teaching your parrot to stop biting check out these videos here.

Easter egg links:

What Does A Quaker Parrot Eat?

Get more parrot training tips here

How To Train A Parakeet

The Parrot Training Expert — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 11:44:53 +0000

If anyone has told you that parakeet training was difficult, they obviously have never read this post.

First off, let me start by telling you we bought our Budgie, Kevin, at a national chain pet store. Now we all know buying from a big box store like that only makes it harder to train. Next time I’ll use a local breeder and get one for a little more money, but already hand tame.

Rules of buying a budgie based on my experience:
A) Buy your parakeet as young as possible
B) Make sure the cage is big enough for him to outstretch his wings, it should be able to comfortable hold two parakeets with outstretch wings.
C) Have plenty of food on hand, never run out. Keep the water clean by using a water bottle.
D) Provide a safe environment for him.
E) Purchase a mirror and cuttle bone.
F) Parakeets love to tear things apart. I use manila rope.
G) You should have the time to devote to your parakeet.
Millet is a favorite treat among parakeets, be sure to have some handy.

By doing the things above you’ll already by 50% of the way when it comes to training your parakeet.

When you buy from big pet stores stores, the birds are handled like freight, like merchandise to throw on the shelf. Then they pack the parakeets in a small cage with about a hundred more birds. So naturally they start to bond with each other, they interact, and react with each other (one bird flies they all fly).

Then you finally pick the one you want, and the birds first real encounter with a human is usually some punk high school kid who just reaches in and grabs him. Pulls him away from his friends and family to stuff him in a small dark box with little holes. All of this is pretty scary if not traumatizing. No wonder your parakeet wants nothing to do with you, and would go to great extremes to not be touched by you.

Luckily there is an easy way to reverse the damage, and turn your wild and untamed parakeet into a trained, tame, and loving pet.

(Week 1 & 2)
It is very important to just leave your parakeet along during the first two weeks. He is in a strange environment, and needs to learn your routine and build trust. You can help him to get more comfortable by placing the cage in a corner or covering at least two sides of the cage. Do not place him in direct sunlight, but put him somewhere where he can get natural light. Your Budgie will not have watch all four sides of the cage this way, and thus will be more relaxed. When you walk by the cage talk gently to the bird. Only open the cage to change the food and water. During this time your parakeet will begin to learn your routines and realize that you won’t harm him. Try talking to the parakeet as much as possible every time you pass the cage or if you’re in the same room.

(Week 3)
After your parakeet is eating normally and is comfortable and happy, you can begin the fun part: hand taming! This tactic may seem a bit strange, but it works. What you’ll want to do is clear a room out so there are little to no hiding places. You want to make sure of this because if the bird gets away from you, you’ll have to move furniture to find him and that can be frustrating. This stage requires a lot of patience, and you cannot allow yourself to be frustrated. This room should also be dark, with absolutely no light at all. You want to turn off the lights, and then stick you finger in the cage right under his chest and then left him up gently once he steps on. Talk to him gently as you do this, making sure to use a soft voice. Do not get mad or frustrated. That will only make things worse. When he steps up on your finger, he’ll have no idea he is on your finger. Do this every other night for the week, and try and do it at the same time so he’ll know it’s coming. Once he steps up on his own you can start the next phase of training.

(Week 4)
Once you have your Budgie (Parakeet) sitting on your finger with the lights off. Grab a flashlight and take it into the room with you. Turn the flash light on, but have it stand on the floor (or table) to block the light. Once you get your parakeet up on your finger, slowly lift the flashlight to reveal that he’s standing on your finger. He make completely freak out once he sees it. That’s okay. Let him jump off and panic a little bit, once he calms down start over. Make sure he is in his cage (a comfortable place) before you begin again and that he has calmed down. Put the light down and give his eyes time to adjust tot he darkness. Work with your parakeet on a daily basis at this, and soon enough he’ll be sitting on your finger out of habit. Even though its something he’ll do all the time in the ark room, during the day he probably won’t go near you. Consider this normal behavior and it will change as time moves on. Don’t be discouraged if your parakeet does not completely trust you after the first month. Again, this requires patience.

(Week 5-6)
Now that your parakeet can sit on your finger in a dark or dimly lit room, without being too jumpy you can move onto the next step. This would be a good time to introduce the bird to other pets in the family. Our cat is a good boy for the most part, so we would pet the cat and talk to him and the bird gently as they see each other up close for the first time with no bars in-between. This way the cat will associate the bird as family and not try to hurt him. After the cat has inspected the bird, he’ll eventually get bored and just walk away. Turn the light on in the other room, which will no doubt be brighter, his eyes will adjust and there is a good chance he’ll fly towards the light. Just walk over to the room and pick him up with your finger. He’ll soon realize that you’re coming to rescue. Do this as much as possible and be gentle with him. This is a scary thing for him and you must be seen as his protector.

(Week 7)
After your bird gets used to stepping up on your finger. It is time to do it during the day. It will feel like lost progress, but he eventually realize that you mean him no harm and that its okay to sit on your finger. Soon after your parakeet will be jumping up on your finger an whistling dixie. After you get your budgie to sit on your finger, don’t be so eager to take him out the cage, let him get use to it and feel relaxed. Keep talking and drill the sound of your voice into his psyche. At some point you’ll have the chance to take him out his cage, and there is a good probability that he’ll immediately fly towards his cage.

The trick is to 1) clip his wings and 2) turn him around so he can’t see his cage. Quickly make the cage “disappear” by either going to another room or covering the cage with a towel. If his wings are clipped he won’t be able to go far, and he’ll need to step-up on your finger so you can take him back to this cage. You’ll bond as he begins to realize that you “rescue him”.

(Week 8)
Now that he is comfortable sitting on your finger outside his cage, you’ll have to make things much more interesting for him while he is out. Keep him by your workstation or computer. There should be a piece of manilla rope or desk toys that he can play with. As you spend more time together your bond gets closer and trust builds. You’ll soon have him chirping and talking. Acknowledge him and interact with him, don’t ignore him. Be sure to teach your younger children to be gentle with the bird and not to abuse them so they can live a long and happy life.

Now I know this seems like an incredible long process (8 weeks!) and it is. But this is the technique I used to tame my parakeet. If you want a technique that works much faster, then I suggest you check out this website. It shows you how to tame a parakeet in just 7 days! Unfortunately I did not discover this parakeet training method until after I had mine tame, but next time I will definitely use it.

Learn how to train your Parakeet in just 7 days by watching the videos on this site.

Parrot Training – 10 Things You Must Know

The Parrot Training Expert — Mon, 31 Aug 2009 11:03:32 +0000

Training your parrot should first and foremost be a game. Make it something you enjoy. In a way training your parrot will teach you a few things about yourself, and you’ll even have to develop a few new tricks of your own. You can’t expect your parrot to immediately understand exactly what it is you want him or her to do. Patience is required (in spades), but if you are consistent and loving you’ll have your parrot trained in no time!

Here are a few things you can do that will make training your parrot a lot easier:

1. Find the right treat or reward that your bird absolutely loves.

2. If your bird is not interested in a training session, then don’t try to force it. Wait and come back at a later time. Or if you notice that your parrot is more open to training at certain times of the day, then stick to those times.

3. Choose a place to train where your parrot feels most relaxed and comfortable.

4. Encourage and reward every positive action when you want to teach her a new behavior.

5. Watch for the motivation of your parrot and end the training session before the bird gets restless or bored.

6. Training should be game for your parrot, so don’t issue any punishment if she gets something wrong.

7. Keeping your patience can be tough, but its absolutely required in order to stay with the learning curve of your bird, otherwise she or he may get confused.

8. Be sure that the behavior or trick you teach her has been 100% learned (in other words, she gets it right 100% of the time) before you move onto a new trick.

9. When going into a training session, be sure you are in a good mood. Your pet knows your emotions and will learn much better if you’re in a jovial mood.

10. Last but not least, always end every training session on a good note. That way your parrot will be left with a good memory and be willing to practice again for the next session.

Remember that all human relationships are built on trust and respect. The same rule applies to you and your parrot. Animals don’t act like humans do so be careful not to use a human frame of reference, but keep in mind their specificity.

Ready to learn how to easily teach your parrot amazing tricks? Then take a look at this “secret” parrot training system.

Easter egg links:
Wild Parrots in England?

Parrots In the Palisades

Bourke’s Parakeet – Momoiro

I Need A Bigger Bird Cage

5 Signs of a Sick Parakeet